Best Advice & Information
Care Level: Easy to Moderate
African violets need strong, indirect light, as well as a comfortable temperature and humidity level. Steer clear of very dim areas as they may harbor soil mold or cause root or base rot.
In between waterings, let the top third of the soil dry; in the fall and winter, this should be reduced even further. Remember that they can withstand severe droughts rather well, so don’t overwater them.
Use a fertilizer labeled “Houseplant” or “Orchid” every third watering in the spring and summer. After the growth stage is finished, reduce this to every fourth water.
Every three to four years, repot your African violet using ‘Houseplant’ potting mix in the next-size container that has drainage holes. Recall that a potbound specimen will blossom more often each year if its root system experiences some modest restriction (because of stress-reaction).
Look for Mealybugs, which live in the crevices of the plants and flowers.
Place & Lighting
Choose a spot that is free from the danger of sun burn and provides strong, indirect light. For non-acclimated specimens, the danger of dryness and terminal damage on its leaf is too great, even if a little morning or evening sunshine is acceptable.
It is advised to place yours on a north-facing windowsill or two meters from a window. To minimize dry air, stay away from radiators in the area.
Is It True That 60% of What You Put On Your Skin Is Absorbent?
Water:
African violets are choosy animals. Your plant may get irritated not only by the frequency and quantity of irrigations, but also by the kind and temperature of water utilized. Let the top third of the soil to dry out in between waterings throughout the growth season; in the fall and winter, let this to happen even less. The following guidelines can help to clarify this further:
1. Use tap water that has been let to sit for at least 24 hours before applying, or use freshly bottled water.
2. Never use cold water; instead, use lukewarm water and avoid often wetting the blooms or leaves. If leaves soggy for an extended period of time (even a few hours), the foliage may begin to decay, while the blossoms may take on Botrytis, also called grey mold. To learn more, click on this hyperlink.
3. Apply water from a bottom-up approach. Wetting the leaves excessively may lead to basal rot developing in its cubbyholes, albeit this is not required. After setting the Violet on a plant saucer, fill the lower fourth of the pot with water so the plant can absorb it all.
Fast blossom loss and dry, crisping leaves are signs of underwatering; these problems are often caused by forgetfulness, excessive sunshine, or extreme temperatures. Never let the soil completely dry out for an extended period of time, even if an under-watered violet is still much preferable than a wet one, since this may lessen the likelihood of new buds sprouting. Symptoms of excessive watering include crown or root rot, yellowing leaves, decaying lower leaves, and a loss of buds or blooms. In order to prevent plant death, let the majority of the soil to dry out between waterings and avoid letting a pool of standing water build up below the pot.
Humidity:
As long as you don’t live in a very dry region, this plant will thrive in average room humidity. Never place it next to an active radiator because of the increased risk of browning the tips of the leaves. If you are really concerned about the dry air, make a humidity tray to provide your plant a consistent, wet atmosphere. This will also help to slow down the pace at which the soil dries up!
Fertilization –
We suggest using a ‘Houseplant’ or ‘Streptocarpus’ labeled feed to fertilize your specimen once every two to four weeks throughout the spring and summer, and then once a month after that. It’s also fine to use a general plant fertilizer, but be sure to dilute the solution by half to avoid scorching the roots.
Porphyromonas ionanthus
Winterization & Perennial Blooms
To strengthen its hibernation, provide it a sunny, cold fall and winter season about 15°C (59°F). To increase the specimen’s stress and increase the likelihood that it will blossom, keep the roots potbound. Typically, blooms occur throughout the spring and summer while the plant is actively growing.
You should do the following in early fall and until the end of winter.
Light and Place
Provide a sunny area free of direct sunshine; pets placed near windows facing the north, east, or west are the happiest. Steer clear of areas with extreme shadow and artificial lights at night or in places where the temperature is greater than 18°C (64°F).
Drinking Water
Water should be reduced until the soil is at least half dry. It’s critical to keep kids optimistic about life as otherwise, they’ll believe that difficult times are coming and will be forced to pass on their genes to the next generation.
Occasionally Feeds
Fertilization with ‘Houseplant’ or ‘Streptocarpus’ labeled feed should be done once a month throughout the fall and winter. When the flowers are developing or in bloom, fertilize with tomato fertilizer every two weeks to give them potassium.
Cut Everything Down
I am reminding you that everything must be lowered, particularly the temperature.
The temperature
The most important step is to lower the temperature by about 5°C from midsummer levels or to a room temperature of 14°C to 17°C (57°F to 62°F). If the outside temperature is consistently maintained throughout the year, you will have a major disadvantage since African Violets will only react to environments with daily variations of around 5°C. Never go beyond the minimum temperature since this might, at the at least, result in plant death or yellowing leaves. If everything goes well, you could see a display of blossoms the next summer. However, keep in mind that working with nature might not always yield the outcomes you’d want.
Typical Problems with African Violets
One major problem for African violets is dry soil. While they may survive brief periods of dryness, prolonged dry spells can severely damage the plant and may even kill it. Under-watering is usually indicated by stunted growth and bloom loss; if it remains in very wet soil for more than a week without showing signs of recovery, it may be dead. If you’re a forgetful waterer, make a plan and steer clear of harsh sunshine or temps.
Another frequent problem are green aphids, which are tiny, lime-colored insects that blend in with the foliage readily and spread quickly. It is most probable that they will infest the young leaves or the actual blooms and stems. Because an aphid may lay up to five or six eggs per day, an infestation can spread quickly. The greatest defense against an assault is to keep the windows and doors closed and to regularly examine freshly acquired specimens for pests. To find out more about getting rid of Aphids, click this link.
The development of mold on soil is a sign of both excessive irrigation and insufficient sunshine. Even though it’s safe, most gardeners will find it unattractive, so once they find out, they remove it. To remove, add a new batch of ‘Houseplants’ compost to the top two inches of the soil. Either increase the quantity of light that gets in or decrease how often you water it.
An inadequate dormant period, during which the temperatures remain relatively constant throughout the year, is the reason for a deficiency of blooms. To guarantee a well-spent dormancy, lower the temperature by a few degrees throughout the fall and winter and use fewer irrigations. The natural temperature will start to rise as spring approaches, making this the ideal season to enhance irrigation and fertilization. Recall that the likelihood of a specimen reflowering increases with the temperature of the summer days.
While we’re talking about it, Streptocarpus Food is a great fertilizer to use if you want to extend the blooming season since it promotes longer-lasting blossoms. Other suggestions to prolong this time include keeping humidity levels high, avoiding temperature swings and droughts, and putting it in a well-lit space with little to no direct sunlight.
There is only about a week left in the flower’s life when the petal edge starts to curl. Don’t forget to trim wasted flowers to promote more blooming!
Failed propagated leaf cuttings: There are a number of reasons why the cuttings haven’t taken root, such as the season (spring or summer is ideal), the size of the leaves (middle-sized leaves work best for propagation), unfavorable growing conditions (replace water weekly for cuttings that are water-propagated, and stay away from overwatering plants grown in soil), and the growing environment (warmth and a bright, shady windowsill are important).
Should your African violet’s stem start to ‘flip’ or decay at the base, you may start the root system again by taking complete stem cuttings. Make sure the wound on the stem is healthy and firm before pruning; rot, or a brown center in the wound, will need more cutting until no germs are visible. See our effective stem cutting by scrolling down to the picture below, under “Propagation”! Read more
Lastly, little flies around your plant or soil are quite normal and can be a sign if you’re watering your plants a bit too often. Due to their need on consistent soil moisture, fungus gnats are a frequent “pest” among African violets, but they do not endanger the plant’s health. Just swap out the top quarter of the plant’s potting mix with a new batch of compost marked ‘Houseplant,’ which is commonly available at most garden centers. Recall to lower the water frequency to prevent this from happening again!
Sources
Within the Gesneriad family, “Saintpaulia” is a redundant genus that had around 10 species that originated in central to southern Africa. All of the species have been reclassified into the nearby Streptocarpus during the past ten years. The name Saintpaulia honors Walter von Saint Paul-Illaire, the district commissioner of Tanga (Kenya), and was originally written in 1892. In 1828, John Lindley used the Greek terms “streptos” and “karpos” to describe Streptocarpus for the first time, referring to the twisted seedpods that the plant eventually produced.
The distribution of Streptocarpus ionanthus, the most well-known “Saintpaulia”
The temperature
50° to 86°F (10° to 30°C)
Hardiness Zone 12 (H1b): This kind of plant may be cultivated inside as well as outside in the summer in a protected area with temperatures above 10°C (50°F). Should you want to take this plant outside, keep it out of direct sunshine as it might burn and get dehydrated. Frequently check for bugs, particularly after bringing it back inside.
Distribute
Maximum dimensions: 20 cm high by 35 cm wide. It will take around five years to reach the highest point.
Maintenance and Pruning
To promote healthier growth conditions, remove plant debris and any yellow or decaying leaves. Use clean shears or utensils while pruning to lower the risk of bacterial and fungal infections. Never cut through tissue that has become yellow because you might spread germs or other illnesses. Make sure your cuts are clean since excessively damaged wounds may shock a plant, impairing its development and health.
Transmission
via division, leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and seeds.
Easy Basal Offset Division: Best time to divide is at the repotting stage. Remove a little amount of dirt with gentle pressure and separate a few basal offsets, each with its own root system. Make sure the plantlet’s basal cubbyhole and leaves are not buried in the soil when you place it in damp “Houseplant” compost. To reduce the chance of dehydration, which is a major cause of mortality, keep the soil somewhat wet and set it in a sunny, indirect area. This technique may be rather simple, but be aware of transplant shock, in which the plant’s root systems are greatly overstimulated, potentially leading to excessive withering.
Cut Leaf Cuttings (Easy to Moderate): This is the easiest and most pleasurable approach to reproduce an exact replica of the original plant. Leaf ‘Cytokinin’ levels are high, which allows the leaves to take root and establish new growths along their serrated wound. The most effective leaves are those that are a component of an established plant and at least 5 cm long. To emphasize the wound’s simplicity, carefully cut near the main stem using clean scissors. To lessen the loose leaf’s breadth, cut it in half vertically. To further encourage sterility, immerse the wounds in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part household bleach. (Use only as directed by an adult, according to manufacturer safety guidelines). Using a Bonsai dish or seed tray and potting mix labeled “Houseplant,” insert the wound-down leaf pieces about 1cm (0.3 inches) into the ground. To provide the leaf further stability with the sounding dirt, apply a little amount of pressure around its base. Maintain high humidity levels by keeping the pot in a sealed transparent bag with many tiny holes and placing it in a bright, indirect area with temperatures above 18°C (64°F). Every few days, open the bag to check on the cuttings’ progress and to let in some fresh air. Take out any decaying or yellowing material since it may transfer to nearby leaves. After six to eight weeks, if propagation is effective, you should observe new shoots emerging the soil line. Maintain the same growing circumstances, and when the shoots are large enough to pot (four leaves per growth), they may be put in 5cm (2 inch) pots made of “Houseplant” compost. Repot as needed, and follow the care instructions labeled at the top to treat them similarly to adult specimens.
Whole Leaf Cuttings (Easy): You can even retain the leaf whole (like in the picture above) by putting the wound end in a tiny glass of water to root, as opposed to chopping it into many portions. When the roots are 2 cm (1 inch) long, put it up in a 7 cm plastic container with potting mix labeled “Houseplant.” Make careful to chop the leaf in half horizontally while it is still rooted in the soil to shorten its overall length by half. Cut away from the middle rib. The potted leaf should be kept in a clear bag with a few holes and should be placed in an indirect area with consistent soil moisture. You may take the bag off and handle the specimen as an adult after the third baby leaf appears.
Stem Cuttings (Simple, See Image Below): This technique should only be used if the plant has rotted roots or basal tissue. To separate the stem/foliage from its root system, just cut the stem horizontally above the soil line. To minimize the overall size of the plant, trim off the lowest fifth of the leaves using the naked pruning end. You may then propagate these leaves using the previous procedure. When the roots reach a length of 5 cm (2 inches), pot up the naked stem in a jar of water and place it in a 7 cm pot filled with ‘Houseplant’ potting mix. Till the plant can be treated as a mature specimen using the information outlined above in “Top Tips,” keep the soil consistently wet and give it access to a sunny, indirect windowsill for three months. Every three waters, feed.
Blooms
African violets are perennial plants that usually bloom in the spring and summer. The duration of a single bloom may reach six weeks, while the whole display can last for two to three months. Because Botrytis Petal-Blight poses a major danger to violet producers, it is imperative that moisture not remain on the cubbyholes of the flowers. When watering, keep the flowers and leaves dry!
Repetting
Repot in the springtime every three to four years using ‘Houseplant’ potting mix and the next largest container that has enough drainage holes. Because of the increased danger of root rot and repotting problems (such transplant shock) when they are recently repotted, African violets are significantly better kept potbound for many years. A limited root system will also increase the likelihood of an annual floral display.
To reduce the possibility of transplant shock, give the plant 24 hours of water before making any root adjustments. If your pot is in a darker spot, add more grit and perlite to the lower part of the pot to reduce the chance of overwatering. For a thorough, step-by-step tutorial on transplanting, click this link. Alternatively, use this link to find out about repotting plants that have root rot.
Diseases & Pests
Look out for pests such as mealybugs, aphids, scale, fungus gnats, blackflies, vine weevils, and root mealybugs, which tend to hide in cubbyholes on the undersides of leaves (the latter two being in the soil). To find out more about common diseases that affect these plants, go here. Other common diseases include rust, powdery mildew, root rot, leaf spot disease, Botrytis, and southern blight.
Hazardousness
Not known to be harmful to people or pets when eaten. Consuming a lot of food might cause nausea, vomiting, and lack of appetite.
